|Organization is key to cornice moldings|
|Applying the 'frosting'|
Creating specific shapes is a straightforward process. Less straightforward — at least for me — is the process of deciding how these individual shapes could be combined to create moldings that are aesthetically coherent when installed, particularly when they are installed in complicated arrangements to form large cornice moldings.
Eventually, I realized my approach to this process had begun to organize itself in my mind without any conscious effort. At that point, I sat down at my computer to articulate my thinking so I could consciously make use of these ideas in organizing future cornice moldings.
Obviously, not all of the ideas in the following list apply to every problem in cornice molding design, and they certainly can’t be applied retroactively to every cornice molding found on classical period furniture. But they do provide me with a concrete method with which I can begin the process of bringing organization to the cornice moldings I construct for my period work.
• Experiment with molding planes: These offer the cheapest and the most diverse vocabulary of shapes available to the modern craftsman. The number of molding-plane profiles available on eBay, from antique tool dealers and at mainstream antique events, is many times greater than the number of profiles offered by any modern vendor of router bits.
The hand plane approach probably isn’t workable in a production shop where economies of scale mandate a machine-based approach, but in a one-man shop like mine in which there is rarely a need for more than 8' or 10' of a particular profile, it can actually take less time to produce this short length of molding using hand planes than it would using machinery. This is because a molding plane requires no setup. There is no cutter to install because the cutter is always in the plane. There is no fence or depth stop to set because both are built into the plane’s sole.
(This is true in the case of a dedicated molding plane, the iron of which is ground to the desired profile. If, however, I’m creating a period profile for which I don’t have a dedicated plane, the process is a little trickier, one requiring some drawing and the use of a variety of hollows, rounds and snipe bills: three types of molding planes created for such work. However, the process of using these planes is probably no more time-consuming than the process of grinding special knives for a machine molder.)
• When you’re creating a cornice molding for a specific piece, consider all the shapes made by the profiling tools at your disposal. I recently finished a Queen Anne highboy on which the molded edges of the drawer fronts were created with a router bit, while the waist and cornice moldings were fashioned with molding planes and — in the case of one small radius — with a bench plane.
• Keep molding samples stored beside each of your molding makers. I keep a 5" to 6" length of molding stored by each of the planes in my collection, identifying the profiles cut by each of these planes. These samples make it easy to mix and match shapes when devising a cornice molding.
• Consider repeating a profile in more than one location on a particular piece to unify that piece. In the case of the kas (or kast, a 17th century Dutch wardrobe) built recently, I used the same plane for one element in the cornice molding and for one element of the base molding.
• When designing a cornice molding, think of the cornice as having three sections, each of which might be made up of more than one shape. The top third should include a bold form along with one or two pleasing shadow lines. The bottom third should also include a pleasing clutter of shadow lines, and the middle third should be a wider and less cluttered transitional form. For example, a simple cove or ogee.